Not everything that sounds sustainable is
Why I Choose Real Leather—Not “Vegan Leather".
When I began designing handbags, many people assumed I would work exclusively with vegan leather. After all, isn’t that the ethical choice?
And yes, it all makes sense on the surface: animal-free, sustainable-sounding, and in step with the prevailing fashion narrative. Terms like “pineapple leather” and “cactus-based alternative” carry an almost irresistible appeal—conjuring images of green innovation and environmental progress.
But the truth is, it’s more complicated than that. Read on for a few revealing facts—and a personal confession from my own vegan leather experiment.
The Illusion of ‘Vegan Leather’
“Vegan leather” has become more of a marketing term than a regulated material definition.
Terms like “vegan leather” or “plant‑based” are frequently used without clarity and with little regulation or oversight globally regarding their claims or composition.
While it suggests ecological virtue, most products bearing the name vegan leather are made from plastic—usually polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). These materials are derived from fossil fuels, release microplastics over time, and do not biodegrade. According to material sustainability assessments (including data from Textile Exchange and consumer product audits), over 85% of "vegan leather" products on the market are made from PU or PVC. Of the remaining ~15%, many plant-based products—such as pineapple, apple, cactus or grape—still include 30–80% plastic content by weight or composition due to the backing, coating, or binders required to make them usable.
Truly plastic-free leather alternatives are developing—and fast—but account for less than 1% of what's currently commercially available and viable at scale (Ecotextile News, 2023).
While the “vegan” label appeals to ethics, it can obscure environmental realities. Transparency is rare: very few brands disclose plastic proportions or end-of-life impact of their vegan materials. As a result, many consumers have little understanding of what they are really buying. In a survey of 2,000 UK adults conducted by Leather UK, over half (54%) admitted they had no idea what vegan leather was actually made from—and 52% said they felt misled upon learning it was PU or PVC rather than a “plant-based” material.
Why Leather Lost Favour
In recent years, real leather has come under fire—not only from animal rights campaigners, but also from a generation of ethically minded consumers seeking cruelty-free options. The rise of veganism, combined with growing concern over fashion’s environmental footprint, has led many to reject leather outright. But in the process, leather has often been mischaracterised: seen not as a material that can be part of a circular and low-waste system, but as a symbol of outdated, extractive luxury.
Common Misunderstandings
A major misunderstanding is the belief that animals are killed for their hides. In reality, leather is a by-product of the meat and dairy industries. According to Leather UK and trade estimates, around 40% of global hides are now discarded—particularly in Western markets—due to declining demand and misconceptions about leather’s role in sustainability. If hides aren’t used, they’re typically sent to landfill or incinerated, which generates methane and contributes to waste. Yet surveys show that around half of consumers believe animals are slaughtered specifically for leather—a misconception that continues to shape purchasing decisions. Another common assumption: that vegan always means sustainable. But as discussed, most vegan leather is synthetic and plastic-based—made from fossil fuels, shedding microplastics, and persisting in the environment for centuries.
A Shift in Environmental Thinking
Fortunately, a more nuanced conversation is emerging. Among sustainability experts and environmentally literate consumers, real leather—when responsibly sourced and minimally treated—is being re-evaluated as a low-impact material. It is durable, repairable, and biodegradable (unlike most synthetics), and it extends the useful life of a waste stream that already exists. In many scenarios, especially when lineages and tanning processes are traceable, traditional leather may be the more environmentally defensible and durable choice. In this sense, leather—properly made—can be a model of circularity. Choosing leather isn’t about nostalgia or indulgence. It’s about material honesty, long-term thinking, and a willingness to look past labels to ask what truly lasts—and what truly degrades.
Why I Use Rescued Leather
For my own brand Chouette Sauvageonne, a deliberate decision from the start was to use rescued leather—high-quality, end-of-line stock from reputable Italian tanneries whose customers are luxury brands. These are premium materials that might otherwise go to waste: surplus from luxury production runs, left unused not because of flaws, but because of overordering, colour discontinuation, or shifting fashion cycles. By sourcing what already exists, I avoid creating new demand—simply honouring the value of a material that would otherwise go to waste. It’s a choice rooted in pragmatism, respect, and sustainability—not just for the environment, but for the craft itself.
Working with leather is deeply satisfying. It’s a material that rewards care and precision, and when handled well, it results in something with real substance—textural, enduring, and beautifully luxurious.
Myth vs Reality: Vegan Leather and Real Leather
· Myth: Vegan leather is plant-based. Reality: Most is plastic—PU or PVC.
· Myth: Vegan means sustainable. Reality: It means animal-free, not eco-friendly.
· Myth: Plant leathers are plastic-free. Reality: Most contain 30–80% plastic.
· Myth: Animals are killed for leather. Reality: Leather is a by-product of meat and dairy.
· Myth: Leather can’t be sustainable. Reality: It’s durable, repairable, and biodegradable.
· Myth: Plastic-free vegan leathers are widely available. Reality: Plastic-free vegan leathers make up less than 1% of the market.
· Myth: Vegan leather is more ethical. Reality: Ethics depend on full lifecycle—not just labels.
My Private Vegan Leather Confession
Like many consumers, I was all for it. What is not to like about being modern, ethical, green. I have a row of designer vegan leather shoes in my closet. Beautiful in theory and design—hell in practice. Unlike real leather, the material doesn’t breathe or soften. It doesn’t mould to the foot. After two hours, I emerge with damp, rigid, aching feet—two dehydrated pink bricks. There is something oddly unnatural about the experience. Almost as if virtue-signalling demands its own penance.
#SustainableFashion #VeganLeather #MaterialEthics #LeatherTruthfully #SlowFashion #DesignForLongevity #CircularDesign #ChouetteSauvageonne
Interesting reading:
1. The Guardian [Plant or Plastic? How to Decode Vegan Leather Alternatives] https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2023/mar/01/plant-or-plastic-how-to-decode-vegan-leather-alternatives
2. Forbes – Brooke Roberts-Islam [Fashion’s Leather Misinformation Problem and Why “Vegan” Doesn’t Mean Sustainable] https://www.forbes.com/sites/brookerobertsislam/2022/11/10/fashions-leather-misinformation-problem-and-why-vegan-doesnt-mean-sustainable
3. Leather UK [The Truth About Vegan Leather] https://leatheruk.org/vegan-leather
4. LeatherTruthfully (Leather Naturally) [Vegan Leather – Deliberately Misleading] https://leathertruthfully.com
5. Textile Exchange [Material Snapshots – Leather & Alternatives] https://textileexchange.org
6. Ecotextile News [Another Tomorrow opts for plastic-free leather alternative (MIRUM)] https://www.ecotextile.com/2025032655548/news/fashion-retail/another-tomorrow-opts-for-plastic-free-leather-alternative
7. Changing Markets Foundation [Fossil Fashion: The Hidden Reliance of Fashion on Fossil Fuels] https://changingmarkets.org/portfolio/fossil-fashion/